Overall:
Peking Duck, Takeaway?
My profound thanks to The Cats Whiskers for putting this recommendation my way, following a forum discussion on Peking Duck. But first, a little history, and I apologise if it’s a little lengthy.
I was introduced to Peking Duck by friends of mine in 1994 at Emperor’s Court in Lake Street Northbridge. There was a fair amount of ceremony attached to the (relatively hefty) price tag for this meal. It’s not just a dish, it is traditionally a three course meal, prepared from one duck. Firstly, the whole duck is presented to the table (of four, usually) by the waiting staff, who then proceeded to dissect the bird into three courses.
The first course saw the waiter (chef?) expertly remove the crispy skin from the duck, while a second waiter/chef pulled out the gas bottle to prepare ultra-tin pancakes. A piece of the skin is placed on the fresh pancake, a piece of manicured shallot is added along with a thick sauce (soy based), then the exquisite morsel is wrapped and placed (by chopsticks, of course) on the fortunate diner’s plate as finger food. And bloody good it is, too!
The second course is a light broth made from the stock of (allegedly) the same duck, while the main course is the meat from the carcass served generally with bean sprouts and ginger, although I recall several variations on this.
Given the labour-intensiveness of this process, it is relatively expensive, and at the time (and on subsequent occasions) we had to place our order 24 hours in advance to allow the chefery to take place.
Now, back to the review.
The Cats Whiskers passed me an e-article about Chin’s Noodle House. Sounds good, despite being 25km from home (but 2 minutes off the Freeway). My partner Sue and I took the same couple that introduced me to Peking Duck in the first place, and armed with a decent Pinot and other reinforcements, we set sail for Leeming.
I’m glad I booked! We had an 8pm booking (on a Tuesday night), and the place was chockas. We were on time, but I could see the waiting staff had their reservations list out, and if we’d been five minutes later, the table could have been taken by a non-booking.
Ambience? Forget it. This is a basic local noisy Chinese, although obviously a very successful one, given the crush and the noise. We were sat at the last remaining table (we booked, remember?) right next to the kitchen. We perused the menu, even though three of us knew we were ordering Peking Duck.
Don’t be fooled by the menu. Peking Duck is listed at $38 per serve. I took that to mean $38 per head, and if it was any good, I was prepared to pay that (I was the host for the evening). WRONG! It was $38 per DUCK!
And what a duck! The skin arrived with a plate of very thin pancakes, and away we went. The sauce was thick and satisfying, the shallots provide great textural balance, and if duck skin was cholesterol free, I would just order three courses of the pancakes! My favourite part of the Peking Duck experience.
The service was interesting. We obviously weren’t getting through the pancakes fast enough, so one of the waitresses bustled over to the table, wrapped up the last couple of pieces into the remaining pancakes herself, and passed them onto the plates. This meant she could clear the table, in readiness for the broth.
The broth was actually a Campbell’s Chunky version, with tofu and a heap of duck meat still attached to the parts of the carcass that were allegedly off the original bird. Let’s keep the illusion going, please. It was tasty, a little rich (duck fat) but it disappeared with gusto.
The main course (with steamed rice) was the meat from the bird done with small ginger pieces and bamboo shoots. Fabulous! The bamboo shoots were still slightly crunchy and toothsome, and overall the components fitted well together.
My partner Sue is not a fan of duck, so her main course was toothfish. Definitely not the Patagonian variety (nor was the price tag) and the serve was way too much for one person.
At the end of the night, I couldn’t argue with the account, under $70 for four people and if Sue had been a duck person, we could have possibly got it under $50; there was enough duck for four. Amazing! The quality was apparent, despite the appearance of a bustling Chinese restaurant where you would not normally expect the respect that the dish evokes. OK, the ceremony wasn’t there, but the quality was, and maybe in the near future we can drop in for Peking Duck takeaway? At a bargain price, of course.
I would thoroughly recommend this local Chinese. The chef, of course, used to work at Genting Palace. But that’s not the reason for the recommendation. I would hate for him to read this, of course, in case he puts the prices up!
The Cats Whiskers’ original email included a link to an article: http://www.news.com.au/perthnow/stor...005384,00.html Go for it. And thanks Cats Whiskers!