Overall:
Sitting pretty on the corner of Roberts and Rokeby roads and just a stone’s throw from Subiaco train station, Wagamama is the newest addition to the suburb’s ever-growing and very multicultural restaurant scene.
For those who aren’t familiar with Wagamama (Japanese for “naughty child), it’s a global chain of Japanese restaurants modeled after the ramen bars of Japan. The original Wagamama opened in central London in 1992 and has since opened franchises throughout the UK and the world. Flick to 2006 and the Wagamama experience is available as far as Amsterdam, Dubai and Antwerp, and the opening of Wagamama Subiaco notches up Australian eatery number 11 for the brand.
Considering the high-profile location of the restaurant (if ever there was an A-List location in Perth, this would have to be top of the list) and the huge sway London has on dictating trends, it was no surprise to find the restaurant full as a bull last night when we arrived for dinner.
What was surprising however, was learning that previews had been running all day from noon and that they were taking place today as well. That means there’ll be a lot of people in Perth trying Wagamama this weekend and a lot of staff with very sore feet.
Inside, Wagamama is funky and trendy personified; minimal décor, clean linear design, subtle lighting, thumping club music based solely on face value, the restaurant is right at home in Subi. Various seating arrangements ranging from booths and bars to long tables fill the restaurant and it’s possible that you may have to sit with other diners, so steer clear if an intimate dinner for two is what you’re after. On the other hand, for big groups and those who love meeting others, Wagamama is the ideal dining room.
Food-wise, if you’re after Japanese favourites such as sushi or tempura, head elsewhere. The bulk of the menu consists of noodle dishes; from the soupy ramen (noodles in pork and chicken stock) and kare (noodles in a curry stock, similar to laksa) dishes, through to the pan-friend teppan noodle dishes. Rice dishes are also available and among the selection on offer you’ll find popular choices such as chicken katsu and chicken teriyaki.
Complementing the main dishes is an interesting assortment of side dishes with gyoza (Japanese dumplings) featuring predominantly. As well as the traditional grilled chicken variety, adventurous diners can challenge their palates to deep-fried gyoza filled with vegetable, prawn or duck fillings. Other sides range from tori kaarage (fried chicken pieces) to chilli fried squid and caramelised sweet potato kusabi (handcut chips with thai basil and wasabi mayonnaise).
Based on what we tried (duck gyoza, wok-tossed Asian greens, suki yaki ramen and teriyaki steak soba), I’d have to say the food was probably more Asian in flavour rather than distinctly Japanese. Additionally, while the food certainly was edible, when comparing Wagamama’s prices to how much similar meals cost elsewhere in Perth, some may understandably question the restaurant’s value-for-money factor.
What I was most impressed with at Wagamama was the staff. Kate, the friendly waitress we had looking after us, was a fantastic host and was busy looking after the diners in her care. Diners after a quick bite will be pleased to hear that waiting times are miniscule; the kitchen churned through the orders at an incredible rate and in spite of a mix-up resulting in a small wait (Wagamama’s ethos is to eat when served rather than wait, but you can’t teach an old dog new tricks), our meals were in front of us very quickly. Judging by the looks of fellow eaters, we weren’t alone when it came to muffed orders, but considering it was a full house on opening night and staff had been thrown into the deep end, all is forgiven and I’m certain these problems will all be ironed out come the restaurant’s opening on Monday.
As someone who believes that shabby venues with impossibly low prices represent the finest in Asian dining, I couldn’t recommend Wagamama to anyone looking for Japanese food. But as a place to eat with friends to preface a night out on the town in Subi, this newcomer is up there with the best of them and will no doubt be a hit with the trendy set.
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A little ammendment and something I posted on another forum…
In the interests of perspective, I’m sure when Wagamama opened in 1992, it certainly impressed in a country that wasn’t that big on Japanese - but more than a decade on and opening in a city where there is a plethora of established Japanese places at all price points, I don’t think Wagamama’s opening will have the same impact as it did in other parts of the world.
Still, I’m sure it will prove a real hit with the Subi crowd and those who’ve spent any extended time in London.
Personally, I’ll keep visiting my favourite low budget Japanese haunts!